If I’m being completely honest, I wasn’t as excited about our honeymoon safari as I was about some of the other wild adventures we had planned in South Africa. Sure, I was looking forward to seeing all the animals, I’m certifiably obsessed with nature and wildlife, but I completely and utterly underestimated how worthwhile this experience would be; tracking Africa’s Big 5 in Sabi Sand Game Reserve was one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life. I learned so much – not simply facts about exotic wildlife, but about the delicate balance of man and nature – in just 3 short days. Here’s our account of a 3 day safari in South Africa, with tips for planning your own once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

The Big 5

Africa’s “Big 5” – lion, elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros – earned this moniker as the most dangerous animals to hunt on foot, and therefore most prized, trophy game for hunters in the early 19th and 20th centuries. While trophy hunting still infamously and controversially exists, the tourism industry has made a concerted effort to use the popularity of the Big 5 to drive more education- and conservation-focused tourism, by way of safaris, in the last few decades.

Knowing that foreign tourists are primarily interested in seeing and photographing the Big 5, rangers and trackers work tirelessly to find them on game drives, often with great success. By far the most elusive of the group is the solitary leopard, so finding one is often a matter of great pride (safari pun!) around the camp dinner table each evening. Each game drive is an entirely unique experience; while you may see lions on every drive, their groupings, behaviors, and interactions will be different each time. The same can be said for most of the species you’ll see. Solitary juvenile male elephants will provide a much different viewing experience (perhaps very interactive, as they love to show off by charging the vehicles) than a few female elephants with calves in tow bathing in a mud pit. No matter how many times you see one of the Big 5, you can never stop marveling at their beauty and unique personalities. Except, maybe, the ugly Cape buffalo.

More than Big 5

If you only saw the Big 5 during your safari the experience would be completely worthwhile, but as an added bonus Kruger National Park is home to just shy of 900 species of birds, reptiles, amphibians, fish, and mammals. Favorites we spotted included the African hornbill, hyena, kudu, hippopotamus, wildebeest, wart hog, baboon, bushbuck, steenbock, zebra, and the ubiquitous impala. If you’re very lucky, you may spot one of the “Secret 7”, which are rare, nocturnal animals considered the most difficult to spot on safari: serval, African wild cat, aardvark, pangolin, civet, porcupine, and large spotted genet. We only spotted one of the Secret 7, the civet, very briefly as we retreated to the lodge one evening.

Game Drives

Day 1

I don’t know why, but I had this misconception going in to the safari that most of the time on the game drives would be spent fruitlessly searching. I should have known from our drive in from the Hoedspruit airport, when we spotted five giraffes, a zebra, a warthog, Cape buffalo, and a herd of elephants within the first 3 km of our drive, that our tracking would be successful, but I just couldn’t wrap my mind around the sheer concentration of wildlife on the plains.

By the time we arrived at the Gowrie Gate, we had already spotted our first herds of impala, a few African hornbills, and a beautiful female bushbuck. We arrived, our previously white car now a light shade of orange, and were greeted by the staff with a refreshing welcome drink. We just missed the afternoon bushwalk, so the staff oriented us to the property and then we were at our leisure until the evening game drive. We were not too remiss in missing the bushwalk, as we were afforded the opportunity to watch a herd of elephants graze on the treetops from the privacy and comfort of our private splash pool, one of the indulgences of our honeymoon suite. A juvenile bushbuck grazed below our deck, as devious vervet monkeys ployed and plotted in the treetops overhead.

When Rufio walked the path from our secluded suite to the main lodge, a large and foreboding male baboon asserted his authority over the pathway. Luckily, he graciously granted passage once Rufio cautiously demonstrated he was not a threat.

Fully rested and relaxed after our long morning journey from the Cape, and excited about the prospect of even closer animal viewing, we were ready to get out of the luxury of the lodge and into the wild of the plains. I quickly learned to keep my eyes and ears peeled every second, as wildlife of some kind seemingly popped up at every turn.

The beautiful, and ubiquitous, impala.

We weren’t on the truck more than a few minutes before we found our first herd of beautiful impala, the frequency of which would become a running joke from our affable and knowledgeable guide, Dawie. A few minutes more, a herd of wildebeest, then a sleeping hyena nearly hidden, buried in the sand to keep cool. Within 30 minutes we saw warthogs, guinea fowl, hornbills, kudu, even a lonely zebra, but no sight yet of the Big 5. That changed soon, though, when we came across a small family of elephants, with a very curious and precocious youngster who entertained us with hilarious balancing antics.

As the sun began to lower in the sky and the air began to cool, the animal kingdom heated up. A pair of male impala locked antlers in a fight of dominance, while a male and female lion (who loved each other very much, I’m told) entangled with one another in a different way.

The highlight of the evening was the sundowner, where we drank South African wine on the shore of a watering hole full of yawning hippos, as the moon, stars, and planets rose in the sky above. We visited the pair of lion lovebirds once more before returning to the lodge for dinner in the open air boma, where all the other safari groups excitedly swapped stories about all they saw on their day’s outing, quite literally around the campfire.

Day 2

Given the success of our shortened first day, we were elated to experience a full day’s itinerary of game drives and bush walks, despite the early wake up call it required. We rubbed our eyes and shivered in the cold morning air, well before the sun peaked over the savannah, while our Land Rovers were packed with blankets, provisions, and large rifles (as a safety precaution only) ahead of our day’s amazing journey.

What a journey it was. Once again we saw a variety of wildlife, but day two was really the day of the Big Cat. In the early morning light, we stumbled upon a rare sight. As I mentioned, the leopard is one of the most elusive species to spot on safari; they tend to be solitary and nocturnal creatures, making them a challenge to track. Here we found a worried mama leopard, anxiously seeking various vantage points to try to catch sight of her cub. Her concern couldn’t be assuaged, so she took off in the direction of her perfectly camouflaged baby.

We followed at a safe distance, desperately peering into the swaying straw-colored grasses hoping to catch a glance. Eventually we found a clue, the carcass of a gutted impala in the shade of a tree. When we moved toward the carcass, we spotted her; a juvenile female was lunching on the remains of the carcass. She peered into our souls, her crystal green eyes locked on ours as she feasted on the remains of the impala. Dawie informed us the catch was a day or more old, but the leopards are not ones to let their prize catches go to waste.

This point was proven when we found our second pair of leopards, another mother-daughter team who were sister and cousin to the earlier impala killers. We were astounded to see even two adult leopards in one game drive, let alone two adults with their young. This pair were both perched high on a tree limb. The mother’s leg and tail drooped sleepily over the sides of the limb. The cub, slightly younger than the former progeny, was also feasting on days old scraps. From the looks of the hide, it too appeared to be an ill-fated impala, though all that remained was one small bit of flesh on which the youngster was eagerly gnawing. We learned that when they have eaten the kill down to a manageable size, the leopards will carry the remaining carcass into the treetops with them, to protect it from scavengers.

We continued to watch this pair for some time, particularly because they both kept putting themselves into some precarious positions on the tree limbs. The day was young, though, and we still had much to do. We made our way back to the lodge for breakfast before the hour long bushwalk, which was uneventful save for a lonely tortoise. We had a few hours of leisure, spent again watching elephants, zebra, wildebeest, vervet monkeys, and bushbucks from our pool, where we were now cooling off in the heat of the day. After a late lunch, it was time for the evening game drive, this one proving to be even more exciting than the previous night’s.

Our drive was off to a good start when upon just exiting the lodge property we spotted a large, male baboon in the road, perhaps the same one who intimidated Rufio when we arrived. We kept a safe distance until he wondered into the bush, not wanting to unintentionally challenge him. When we were able to pass, we happened up one of my favorite moments of the safari.

A family of elephants, mostly females and their young, bathed in a cool mud pit. While wallowing in the mud serves a practical purpose, keeping them cool and protecting their skin from sunburn, the elephants also use it as a playful time to socialize. We left the pachyderm family playing in the mud, only to stumble upon a pride of sleepy lionesses and their cubs en route to our sundowner.

The highlight this night was the not the sundowner, but what came later. Instead of leisure time at the lodge before dinner, we stayed out in the bush until the billions of stars of the Milky Way became clear in the sky overhead. Dawie pointed out the Southern Hemisphere constellations, most of which we had never seen before, with an incredible green laser pointer. As you do with constellations, he regaled us with the myths and legends behind each one. It was one of the most beautiful nights I can remember. My greatest regret was not being properly equipped or educated on how to photograph the night sky, for that night was one I hope to never forget.

Luckily, Dawie is a wonderful photographer. Here is one of his images of the night sky in the Sabi Sand.

On the way back to the lodge we had one final surprise for the day. In the dark, our tracker spotted one of the “Secret 7”, a lone civet hidden among some branches.

Day 3

On our departure day we only had time for one morning drive, but what a success it was. We were able to find all of the Big 5, including the elusive (read: critically endangered) rhino, bathed in sunlight.

We began the day admiring a den full of adorable hyena puppies. I was still fawning over the pups when a call came over the radio. In a flash, Dawie and our tracker whipped the truck around; it was clear we were in hot pursuit, but none of us really know of what.

We came to a screeching halt in a clearing. Dawie and our tracker spoke excitedly in Afrikaans, motioning to one another about slight movements in the bush. We sat quiet in nervous anticipation, still not knowing what to expect to come out of the tall grasses.

A twig snapped in the bush, breaking the silence. We could see movement through the leaves, and then suddenly they emerged – a majestic pair of lions, brothers who were on the run. Dawie filled us in on the drama. This territory belonged to another, older and larger, pair of brothers. These two had ventured too far once before, and had been threatened by the reigning kings of this jungle. Dawie supposed they had overstepped their boundaries once again, and were being chased out. We followed them in hot pursuit, curious whether they would cross paths with their enemies.

The excitement on the truck was palpable as we tracked them for quite a while. We paused when they paused, noses and mouths pointed upward, breathing and tasting the air for any hint of their antagonists.

As it turned out, a battle royale would not play out this morning, and though tracking the lions was exciting, we once again received a call over the radio. This time, our target was much more obvious. We pulled into a clearing to find one male and two female rhinoceroses lazily munching on the grass. It was the first time we saw them in the light, and they were a sight to behold. Stalking rhinos may not be as exciting as lions in a territory dispute, or leopards chowing down on kill – these nearly blind vegans spend most of the day slowly grazing – but spending some time watching these gentle giants at peace in their natural environment was at once as beautiful as it was heartbreaking.

Dawie led a thought-provoking conversation about conservation efforts on public and private game reserves, particularly the challenges, failures, successes, and unfortunate realities that represent the current strategies in the fight against extinction for rhinos and other exploited species. The conversation struck a nerve, perhaps especially since this wild adventure we had so cherished over the last two days was coming to a close. We spent much of the drive back to the lodge in quiet reflection, grateful for this amazing opportunity we had to enjoy South Africa’s wild beauty, while conscious of the fragile balance between man and beast that must now exist thanks to a long history of human interference with the natural order.

Sabi Sands wouldn’t let us leave on a sad note, however. There was one big missing piece to our safari puzzle. One might think that of all the species, the lanky giraffe would be the easiest to find of all – one would be wrong. Although Rufio and I spotted a few from the road as we drove past the perimeter of the Kapama Game Reserve near Hoedspruit, we hadn’t actually seen any in our 3 days at Sabi Sand. When we did finally spot a singular juvenile, and then a few hundred meters later his herd, it was easy to see why we may have missed them previously. Despite their towering height, giraffes are brilliantly camouflaged, particularly during the dry season when the vegetation is dry and brown. We were amazed, yet again, by the wonders of the South African bush. We celebrated the find with our compatriots on the truck, who were happy to finally have a photo of a giraffe before they had to depart.

Conservation & Education

I learned more about African wildlife during our 3 day safari than I did over a lifetime of watching countless hours of Discovery Channel documentaries. The Big 5 may be the main draw, but there are so many beautiful and fascinating species that I never knew existed roaming the African plains.

As I mentioned, our guide led us in an insightful discussion of the political and economical factors impacting conservation efforts, and the complicated issues surrounding trophy hunting. He adeptly explained the nuances of the debate, a gray moral and ethical area that only exists because of decades of unregulated hunting and illegal poaching.

The reality now is that safari tourism is a major driving factor helping in the fight against extinction for some of these species. In my opinion, it does come with a downside. In researching where to safari, there were certain ethical standards a reserve needed to meet for our consideration. Most importantly, the animals needed to be able to roam freely, and human interaction needed to be minimal. Sabi Sand, and more broadly Kruger National Park, best fit these requirements. However, no matter how much distance we kept, there is no denying that any amount of human interaction might be disruptive. There were a few times during the drives, particularly when one of the Big 5 were doing something interesting, that 2-3 trucks from nearby lodges would circle round. This is to be expected; to improve sighting success, and thus overall customer satisfaction (which leads to good reviews, which leads to more customers, which leads to more money for conservation efforts...), rangers from all the lodges radio one another when something really intriguing is happening. While they do try to coordinate so that there is only one group at a time, occasionally the situation I mentioned earlier will happen. The animals typically do not appear to be stressed by it, and if they do appear stressed the rangers would immediately back away, but to me it still feels like too much intrusion.

However, it is important to consider the cost – some intrusion into the animals’ lives – in conjunction with the benefit of increased protection from poachers Sabi Sand and Kruger National Park can afford thanks to safari tourism. The money generated by safaris not only provides resources to patrol the land for poachers, it also provides the incentive to maintain rigorous patrolling; if animal populations decline from poaching, tourism money stops flooding in. It’s important within local economies that the economic benefit from the conservation of the wildlife far outweigh the economic benefit from hunting or poaching, and so the parks and lodges face an incredible task in protecting their lands and maintaining a thriving safari industry.

Finding reliable data on safari revenue, conservation funding, and anti-poaching initiatives can be difficult. Check out this report from the United Nations World Tourism Organization for more on this topic.

Sojourn Information

Where to safari: Sabi Sand Game Reserve is a 65,000 hectare reserve sharing a border with the iconic Kruger National Park. The reserve is privately owned, and 21 private game lodges operate on the land. The name is derived from the Sabi and Sand rivers which flow through the reserve, offering a perfect habitat for the Big 5 and many more. The reserve is touted as having one of the highest concentrations of wildlife in South Africa, which enables safari patrons the best opportunity to see all of the Big 5 and more. Sabi Sand is also said to be one of the best areas for spotting leopards, and at least from our experience this seems to be accurate. As I mentioned earlier, wildlife have free range from the private grounds of Sabi Sand to the public land of Kruger National Park.

Where to stay: The 21 lodges in Sabi Sand offer a range of amenities for various budgets. We settled on Elephant Plains specifically because it had one of the best prices for a honeymoon suite, and better reviews for food and other lodge amenities than others at the same price point. The safari experience is going to be about the same at all of the Sabi Sand lodges, but Elephant Plain’s trackers and rangers also boasted great reviews. Customers raved that they were not only good at tracking, but were also amazing people. That, we learned, was so true. The rangers and trackers are passionate about their jobs, and are experts on the flora and fauna of the region. I highly recommend Elephant Plains for your safari adventure.

How to get there: Flights from Johannesburg and Cape Town are available to the Hoedspruit airport and the Kruger Mpumalanga airport. Hoedspruit is closer to Elephant Plains, and flight costs and availability are similar between the two airports. The drive from Hoedspruit airport to the Gowrie Gate entrance of Sabi Sand took a little over two hours. You may not be given much of a selection, but request a SUV (preferably 4×4) from your car rental company if one is available. The first 50 km or so of the drive on Route 40 is decently well-maintained paved road, but much of the remaining 40 km is extremely bumpy dirt (and rock); potholes and complete wash outs are ubiquitous. Also be wary of free roaming herds of cattle, and your occasional wild animal.

Essential gear: Three days spent out in the wild requires a few pieces of special gear. For clothing, make sure to wear a lightweight hiking or fishing shirt with long sleeves that can be rolled up. You want to something that will protect your skin from the blaring sun at midday, while helping you stay cool. Choose neutral colors or white. Try the Columbia Tamiami II. In the cool morning air, you’ll also want a light jacket. I love the Columbia softshell for this purpose. You’ll spend most of your time in the trucks, but for your bushwalks make sure you have a good pair of hiking shoes. The Zamberlan Crosser is a great choice for a variety of outdoor activities. A hat (again in neutral colors), and eco-friendly sunscreen are also suggested.

You’ll definitely want to have a decent camera to capture the unbelievable beauty of the plains. We bought an entry level DSLR, the Nikon D3300, specifically for this trip. Having a zoom lens is key, so I brought along the Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED Vibration Reduction Zoom Lens with Auto Focus , and was quite happy with the results. The vibration reduction feature is important, considering you can’t really set up a tripod for stability on the truck. The GoPro HERO6 is also great for catching wide angle video footage of the animals. Bring along the GoPro suction cup mount to mount the camera on the side of the truck for a unique perspective.

Planning a safari in South Africa? Leave a comment below!

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliates, which means if you make a purchase using the link I will earn a small commission to help run this blog, at no cost to you. As always, the opinions and recommendations presented in this blog are mine, and always an honest reflection on our experiences. Thank you for reading!