Sojourners Explore: Kosrae by Land

It may be small and life may move at a slower pace, but thanks to its lush geography, ancient cultures and vibrant aquatic life, there is a wide variety of things to do in Kosrae. The first post dedicated to Kosrae will explore its land-based activities.

Menke Ruins and Rainforest Hike with Salik

Salik Wakuk is renowned as a leading expert in the native botany of Kosrae. His résumé is impressive, serving as a subject matter expert for the College of Micronesia and other leading universities around the globe. As a local, he also happens to be well-versed in the history of the island, so he serves as the prominent guide for the jungle hike to the Menke Ruins.

Salik leading the way

Along the 2 hour hike through lush rainforest and the Finkol River, Salik teaches his visitors about the taxonomy and traditional uses of every plant species in sight. He entertains his guests by nimbly scurrying up coconut trees or slashing down bananas and tangerines to taste with his machete. When a rogue rain shower inevitably passes overhead, Salik will fashion makeshift umbrellas to keep the hikers’ heads dry. Highlights of this trail include the endangered Ka tree and the “rainbow” eucalyptus stands. Swimming in the crystal clear mountain water is also encouraged.

Hands-on demonstration

Ka Tree

Rainbow eucalyptus

Ginger

Eventually the hike reaches the Menke Ruins, the oldest on Kosrae. These ruins are believed to have been erected to worship “Singlaku” the goddess of breadfruit. Because they predate the Lelu Ruins (and even Nan Madol on Pohnpei) the basalt columns that remain are mostly obscured by dense undergrowth. Still, to stop here and consider just how long humans have been living and thriving on the tiny island of Kosrae is awe-inspiring.

Menke Ruins

Menke Ruins

Menke Ruins

This hike is considered medium difficulty, and river crossings are necessary so wear appropriate attire and don’t forget to prepare for rain. The hike plus the drive to Utwe will take somewhere around 4 hours total. The tour can be arranged through any of the hotels on Kosrae. At least one day advance notification is preferred.

Lelu Ruins

I didn’t seek out the Lelu Ruins on my previous trip, mostly because Rufio tried before me to find it and failed. I found it odd that the navigator extraordinaire couldn’t find his way, but I now understand his difficulty. Despite being “considered one of the great wonders of the Pacific”, the Lelu ruins are but an afterthought in this sleepy village.

I had just arrived in Kosrae after an unexpected layover in the Marshall Islands, and had the afternoon to kill before work started the next day. Given that it was Sunday, water sports were not advised to respect the local customs. I hoped to take the aforementioned jungle walk with Salik, but he had already left with one group for the day and by the time they would return another tour would probably not be possible. With that I set out to find the elusive archeological site.

I was  told at the hotel that the entrance was just off the road near the Ace Hardware. I couldn’t immediately locate it, so I walked along a few more meters before I consulted an old guidebook I had been given. I stood looking obviously confused on the side of the road before a friendly passerby asked if I needed help. He then told me to walk directly behind the nondescript building in front of me.

Enter Here

The guidebook concurred with the direction, then indicated to “follow the path to the pigpen then turn right”. Unfortunately there were two pigpens, and I chose the wrong one. I climbed aimlessly into some dense underbrush before heading out to the road again. I found two young men to ask, and they graciously offered to turn around and help me. I was at first apprehensive as they led me through palmetto thickets that I might be robbed or at the very least solicited for money for their help. But as they smiled and said goodbye, I remembered this was friendly, sleepy, safe Kosrae.

One of the pigpens

I had the ruins all to myself, so I did my best to navigate as many of the walled compounds as I could. Marble signs indicating the names and uses for each of the chambers were somewhat helpful, although the inscriptions were actually fading, probably from rainfall erosion. Regardless, standing next to the high basalt column walls and imagining what the King, high chiefs, low chiefs and commoners might have been doing in each chamber of this busy city-center c. A.D. 1400 made for a fun walk among the palms.

Lelu Ruins

Lelu Ruins

Lelu Ruins

Coral Masonry

Basalt Column

Remnants of the transport channels

Lelu Ruins

Lelu Ruins

Sipyen Falls

Once you leave the paved road and arrive at the Sipyen Falls sign, it’s but a short hike through some high grass to get to this little hidden gem. However, the sign is a bit misleading, so I ended up driving about 20 minutes too long on road that really necessitated a 4×4 SUV. Driving along the road that leads to Walung did give me a glimpse at just how isolated this community is, even on a small island.

<——Falls This Way——>

Road to Walung

Foot “path” to the falls

Sipyen Falls

Ice cold swimming pool

The hike to the falls is very short, but it does require scrambling over wet rocks, so do be sure to wear appropriate footwear. Once you’ve made it, take a dip in the cold pool or explore the small adjacent cave.

Lelu Island Running Path

This entry may not be recognized by Kosrae Visitor’s Bureau as an “official” attraction, but my running route from the Pacific Treelodge to Lelu Island and back offers glimpses of Kosraen nature, history and local culture, so I think it counts.

The first item of interest on the running tour is the large bat colony that roosts in a palm and mangrove thicket directly across from the swimming and diving pier. The Sleeping Lady serves as a backdrop every evening as the bats dance through the sky, eating their last white flies before they roost for the night.

Bat Colony

Bats roosting

Turn the bend across the Lelu Causeway and in less than a mile you’ll pass Japanese WWII tanks beached in the mangroves. These relics of the Japanese occupation in Micronesia are rusting away, forgotten and neglected. Just past the most visible tank are the Japanese steps, which once led to a weather station atop the steep mountain, but today only lead to thick jungle brush.

Japanese Tank

Along the road you’ll pass smiling children wandering aimlessly without supervision, frantic roosters who dart into palmettos to escape their perceived danger, ambling feral dogs who may chase you for a distance, ladies in Chuukese muumuus or Pohnpeian skirts sweeping their yards of hibiscus leaves and men chewing betel nut or drinking seka. Prized pigs grunt in roadside cages, and a thick floral fragrance hangs in the air as a dense fog swirls in to tuck the Sleeping Lady in for the evening. This is beautiful Kosrae.

Street Sweepin’

Fog Rolling In

Laundry Day in Lelu

Barrack’s Market

The pristine front yard of a tin waterfront shanty

What are your favorite Kosrae land-based activities?